Hong Kong XO sauce (XO jeung)

1. Put the dried scallops and dried shrimp in separate bowls, sprinkle with the Shaoxing rice wine and pour over enough hot water to cover; soak for 1 hour.

2. Drain the scallops and shred them finely with your fingers; drain the shrimp and chop finely. Keep 4 tablespoons of the soaking water.

3. Very finely chop the ham, shallots, garlic and chillies.

4. Heat the oil in a wok and fry the shallots and garlic over low heat for 8-10 minutes until golden.

5. Add the ham, scallops and shrimp and fry, stirring often, for 15-20 minutes until dark golden brown and crisp; then add the chillies and chilli flakes and fry for 2 more minutes.

6. Pour in the oyster sauce, sugar and the reserved soaking water and cook until the liquid has evaporated and the oil sizzles clearly again; when cool, pack into a clean jar so the oil covers it.

Tip: Born in the kitchens of Hong Kong's luxury hotels, it is named after the "most prestigious" cognac, though there's none in it. Spoon it over fried rice, noodles, steamed vegetables or turnip cake; it keeps for 1 month in the fridge.