Estonian sauerkraut with pearl barley and pork (Mulgikapsad)

1. Rinse the pearl barley and soak it in cold water for 30 minutes; taste the sauerkraut – if it's very sour, rinse it once and squeeze it out.

2. Cut the ribs into portion-sized pieces between the bones, season with salt and pepper and lay them in the bottom of a large, heavy-based pot.

3. Spread the sauerkraut over the top, pour in the water, cover and simmer over low heat for 1 hour.

4. Add the drained barley, finely chopped onion and sugar, stir gently, cover and cook over low heat for another hour, stirring from time to time; add a little water if it dries out.

5. It's ready when the barley is soft, the meat falls off the bone and the cabbage is thick, creamy and slightly caramelised; adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.

6. Serve piping hot with potatoes boiled in their skins or rye bread.

Tip: Mulgikapsad is a peasant dish from the Mulgi region of southern Estonia; the barley soaks up the cabbage juices and the fat from the meat, which makes it silky – it's even better reheated the next day.