Cypriot cracked green olives with coriander and lemon (Tsakistes)

1. Rinse the olives (whole, stone-in green olives cured in brine) and pat dry on kitchen paper.

2. On a chopping board gently crack each olive with a small mallet or a flat stone so the flesh splits but the stone stays whole.

3. Toast the coriander seeds in a dry frying pan for 1-2 minutes, then crush coarsely in a mortar.

4. Wash the lemon well and cut into thin wedges; slice the garlic.

5. In a bowl toss the olives with the coriander seeds, lemon wedges, garlic and olive oil.

6. Put into a jar and leave to mature in the fridge for at least 1 day (ideally 3-4 days); serve at room temperature as a starter or with meze.

Tip: In autumn Cypriot housewives crack fresh olives themselves and soak them for weeks to draw out the bitterness – with ready-brined olives this step is skipped, but the cracking is still needed so they absorb the flavourings.