Cumin and chilli lamb skewers (Yangrou chuan)

1. Cut the lamb into 2 cm cubes; grate the onion, squeeze out the juice and mix it with the meat, Shaoxing rice wine and half the salt; marinate for 30 minutes.

2. If using wooden skewers, soak them in water for 30 minutes.

3. Toast the cumin and Sichuan pepper in a dry pan for 1 minute, crush coarsely and mix with the chilli flakes, sesame seeds and remaining salt.

4. Thread 5-6 pieces of meat onto each skewer and brush with oil.

5. Grill on a hot grill or griddle pan for 6-8 minutes, turning often and sprinkling generously with the spice mix twice.

6. When the edges of the meat are browned but the inside is still juicy, serve immediately.

Tip: The symbol of Uyghur street food from Xinjiang, now a night-market favourite all over China. Traditionally fattier lamb is used – if your meat is lean, thread a small cube of fat between the pieces.