Crispy pressed chicken (Tsitsila tabaka)

1. Cut the chicken along the breastbone, open it out, lay it skin side up on the board and press it firmly flat with your palm or the flat side of a meat mallet so it's an even thickness; you can tuck the ends of the legs into small slits cut in the skin.

2. Season both sides generously with salt and pepper and leave at room temperature for 20 minutes.

3. Melt the butter in a large, heavy frying pan (the lid of the traditional tapa pan is made for this), lay in the chicken skin side down, cover with a plate and weigh it down with something heavy (a pot of water or a brick).

4. Cook over medium-low heat for 20-25 minutes until the skin is evenly deep golden and crisp; then turn it, replace the weight and cook the other side for 15-20 minutes until cooked through.

5. Meanwhile pound the garlic to a paste with a pinch of salt and loosen it with 4-5 tablespoons of warm water (or the pan juices); finely chop the coriander.

6. Cut the crispy chicken into pieces, arrange on a platter, drizzle with the garlic dressing and scatter with coriander; serve with sour tkemali plum sauce and fresh bread.

Tip: The secret is weight and patience: when the chicken sits evenly against the pan, the skin turns glassy-crisp. With small chickens (poussins, about 600 g), half a bird per person is the classic portion.