Albanian baked lamb with yoghurt (Tavë kosi)

1. Cut the leg of lamb into 4 large pieces, rub with salt, pepper, oregano and crushed garlic, put in a roasting tin, dot with half the butter, pour in 200 ml of water and roast at 200 °C for 50-60 minutes, basting now and then.

2. Scatter the washed rice around the meat (the pan juices will cook it) and roast for another 15 minutes.

3. Meanwhile melt the remaining butter in a pan, stir in the flour and cook for 1-2 minutes to a pale roux; take off the heat and let it cool a little.

4. Whisk the yoghurt with the eggs until smooth, season with salt and nutmeg, then work in the lukewarm roux thoroughly.

5. Arrange the meat and rice in a buttered ovenproof dish, pour over the yoghurt topping and bake at 180 °C for 30-35 minutes until the top is puffed and golden in patches.

6. Leave to rest for 10 minutes, then serve warm with fresh bread and salad – it's Albania's national dish, which originated in the town of Elbasan.

Tip: The yoghurt shouldn't be cold and the roux shouldn't go in hot, or it will curdle – with room-temperature ingredients you'll get a silky, puffed top. Lamb shoulder works instead of leg too.