Udon noodle soup with fried tofu (Kitsune udon)

1. Pour boiling water over the fried tofu to remove excess oil, then cut into triangles or rectangles.

2. In a small pan, bring the water to the boil with the soy sauce, mirin and sugar, add the tofu and simmer on low for 10 minutes until it absorbs most of the liquid.

3. Meanwhile, for the soup, bring the dashi to the boil with the soy sauce, mirin and salt.

4. Heat the udon in boiling water for the time on the packet and drain.

5. Divide the noodles between hot bowls, pour over the hot soup and lay the sweet-savoury tofu on top.

6. Sprinkle generously with sliced spring onion and serve at once.

Tip: "Kitsune" means fox: in Japanese folklore the fox's favourite food is sweet fried tofu. The Osaka version has a paler broth, the Tokyo version a darker one – it's up to you.