1. Whisk the masa harina with 500 ml of lukewarm water in a bowl until smooth and lump-free.
2. Heat the milk in a saucepan over medium heat with the cinnamon stick and the chopped piloncillo, stirring until the piloncillo dissolves. If you have no piloncillo, dark cane sugar (or panela) stands in.
3. Crumble in the Mexican chocolate and stir until completely melted. If you have no Mexican chocolate, dark chocolate with a little ground cinnamon and sugar is a good substitute.
4. Pour the masa water into the pan in a thin stream, whisking constantly.
5. Cook over low heat, stirring often (so it doesn't catch), for 8-10 minutes until thick and creamy – it should run slowly off a spoon.
6. Remove the cinnamon stick, whisk the champurrado until frothy (in Mexico with a wooden molinillo) and pour into mugs; serve with tamales or conchas.
Tip: Always mix the masa into cool or lukewarm water first – sprinkled into hot milk it instantly goes lumpy.
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