Sticky rice with chicken in lotus leaf (Lo mai gai)

1. Soak the glutinous rice in cold water for at least 4 hours (or overnight); soak the dried shiitake in lukewarm water for 30 minutes and the lotus leaves in hot water until pliable.

2. Drain the rice, spread it in a cloth-lined steamer and steam for 25 minutes; tip into a bowl and mix with the 300 ml of water, the soy sauce, sesame oil and salt so it absorbs them.

3. Cut the chicken into 2 cm pieces, slice the Chinese sausage and the squeezed-out mushrooms, finely chop the shallots; mix the chicken with the oyster sauce, soy sauce, Shaoxing rice wine, sugar and cornflour.

4. Fry the shallots in the oil for 1 minute, add the chicken, sausage and mushrooms and stir-fry for 4-5 minutes until the chicken is cooked and the sauce has thickened.

5. Place half of a quarter of the rice in the centre of each lotus leaf, top with a quarter of the filling, cover with the remaining rice and fold the leaf into a tight parcel.

6. Steam the parcels seam side down for 30 minutes; serve in the leaf, which is opened at the table but not eaten.

Tip: One of the stars of Cantonese dim sum: the lotus leaf gives the rice a tea-like, earthy aroma. If you can't find lotus leaves, wrap the parcels in baking paper and foil – only the aroma will be lighter.