Spiced beef "boat" noodle soup (Kuai-tiao ruea)

1. Blanch the beef shin in large pieces in boiling water for 5 minutes, drain and rinse so the broth stays clear.

2. Cover with fresh water, add the star anise, cinnamon, sliced ginger and crushed garlic, and simmer covered over low heat for 2 hours until the meat is tender.

3. Lift out the meat and slice it thinly; season the broth with the soy sauce, fish sauce, palm sugar and white pepper until dark, spiced and savoury.

4. Soak the rice noodles according to the packet, then dip each portion in a strainer into the hot broth for 20-30 seconds.

5. Put the noodles into small bowls, pile on the bean sprouts and meat, and ladle over plenty of hot broth.

6. Serve with Thai basil, spring onions and sliced chilli.

Tip: Named after the boat vendors on Bangkok's canals who served it in tiny bowls – the original is thickened with a little fresh beef blood, which you can happily leave out at home. You can make the broth a day ahead; it tastes even better the next day.