Sauerkraut and bean stew (Jota)

1. Soak the borlotti beans overnight in plenty of cold water. The next day drain them and simmer with the smoked ribs and bay leaves in about 2.5 litres of cold water over low heat for 1 hour.

2. Meanwhile braise the sauerkraut (rinse it briefly first if it's very sour) in a separate pan with a little water for 30 minutes.

3. Add the peeled, diced potatoes to the beans and cook for 20-25 minutes until both beans and potatoes are tender; crush some of the potatoes against the side of the pot to thicken.

4. In a small frying pan, cook the flour in the lard until pale golden, add the crushed garlic, take off the heat and stir in the paprika.

5. Stir the braised sauerkraut and the roux into the beans and potatoes, strip the meat from the bone, dice it and return it; season with salt and pepper and simmer together for another 15 minutes.

6. Serve hot in deep plates with bread – the flavours really come together the next day.

Tip: Jota is the signature one-pot dish of Trieste, the Karst and the Slovenian coast, where Austro-Hungarian, Slavic and Italian cooking meet. In autumn it is also made with soured turnip (kisla repa) instead of sauerkraut.