Saffron and cardamom strained yoghurt (Shrikhand)

1. Line a sieve with a double layer of muslin or a clean, thin tea towel, set it over a bowl and pour in the yoghurt. Gather up the cloth and leave to drain in the fridge for 6-8 hours or overnight, until the yoghurt is thick, like cream cheese (about 450 g will remain).

2. Soak the saffron in 1 tablespoon of lukewarm water for 10 minutes. Finely chop the pistachios.

3. Put the strained yoghurt in a bowl and whisk or beat with a spatula until smooth. For the silkiest texture, you can also press it through a sieve.

4. Add the icing sugar, the saffron with its soaking water and the cardamom, and stir until the sugar has completely dissolved and the cream is an even pale yellow.

5. Stir in most of the pistachios, spoon into small bowls or glasses and chill for at least 1 hour.

6. Serve cold sprinkled with the remaining pistachios, on its own or, as is customary in Gujarat and Maharashtra, with hot puri.

Tip: Shrikhand is the festive dessert of Maharashtra and Gujarat, especially at Gudi Padwa, the New Year festival. The result depends on the quality of the yoghurt: full-fat yoghurt that isn't too sour makes the creamiest shrikhand. Don't throw away the drained whey; it's good in bread dough or dal.