Romanian roasted aubergine and pepper spread (Zacuscă)

1. Roast the whole aubergines and peppers on a grill, over a gas flame or in a 220 °C oven, turning them, for 30-40 minutes until the skins are blackened and the flesh is completely soft.

2. Cover the peppers for 10 minutes, then peel and deseed them; scoop out the aubergine flesh and let it drain in a sieve for 15 minutes so the bitter juices run off.

3. Chop both vegetables very finely with a knife (don't purée them completely in a blender – zacuscă should be slightly chunky).

4. In a heavy-based pan, gently soften the finely chopped onions in half the oil for 10-12 minutes, then add the tomato purée and stir for 2 minutes.

5. Add the aubergine, peppers, remaining oil, bay leaves and sugar, season with salt and pepper and simmer over low heat, stirring often, for 45-60 minutes until it becomes a thick, glossy spread and the oil gathers on top.

6. Remove the bay leaves, let the spread cool and serve at room temperature on fresh bread (it keeps for a week in the fridge and can be jarred for the winter).

Tip: Zacuscă is the 'put away for winter' spread of autumn Romanian and Moldovan kitchens, cooked by whole families in a big pot after the harvest. It's also made with mushrooms or beans; if you like it hot, cook a dried chilli in it.