Romanian polenta (Mămăligă)

1. Bring 1.2 litres of water to the boil with the salt in a heavy-based pan.

2. Pour the cornmeal into the boiling water in a thin stream, stirring constantly (traditionally with a wooden stick, the 'făcăleț'), so no lumps form.

3. Turn the heat down to the lowest setting and cook for 25-30 minutes, stirring often and vigorously, until the cornmeal is cooked and the mixture comes away from the sides of the pan.

4. Stir in half the butter at the end.

5. Turn the polenta out onto a damp wooden board, smooth the top and traditionally slice it with a thread; let the remaining butter melt on top.

6. Serve warm with soured cream – as a side for sarmale, stews, fried fish or tochitură.

Tip: For centuries mămăligă was the Romanian peasantry's daily bread. Layered with sirene (telemea) and soured cream it becomes a one-pot meal; once cold, slices can be fried crisp in a pan.