Rice noodles in thick pork and gai lan gravy (Rat na)

1. Soak or briefly cook the wide rice noodles and drain; thinly slice the pork loin, cut the gai lan diagonally into pieces and chop the garlic.

2. Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a wok over high heat, toss the noodles with the sweet soy sauce and stir-fry for 2-3 minutes until charred in places; divide between plates.

3. In the remaining oil in the wok, fry the garlic for 30 seconds, then the pork for 2 minutes.

4. Add the gai lan stems, then pour in the stock and season with the oyster sauce, soy sauce and sugar; cook for 2 minutes, then add the leaves.

5. Mix the cornflour with 4 tablespoons of cold water, stir into the hot liquid and cook, stirring, for 1 minute until you have a thick, glossy gravy.

6. Ladle the gravy over the noodles, sprinkle with white pepper and serve with chillies in vinegar.

Tip: "Rat na" literally means "poured over" – this Chinese-rooted noodle dish with gravy is a favourite of Bangkok's street stalls. If you have no gai lan, broccoli or bok choy will do; don't cook the gravy for long after adding the starch or it will lose its shine.