1. Trim the thicker membrane and fat from the pork cheeks with a knife, pat them dry, season with salt and pepper and dust lightly with flour.
2. Heat the olive oil in a heavy-based pan and brown the cheeks in batches until deep golden on all sides – don't overcrowd the pan or they'll steam instead of browning; lift them out.
3. In the remaining oil, cook the diced onion and carrot for 10 minutes until slightly caramelised, then add the crushed garlic.
4. Return the meat, pour in the red wine, add the bay leaves and thyme, and add just enough water to cover the meat; bring to the boil.
5. Cover and simmer over the lowest possible heat (or in the oven at 150 °C) for 2.5 hours until the meat can be crushed with a spoon; then lift it out, blend the sauce smooth with a stick blender and reduce it uncovered until thick and glossy.
6. Return the cheeks to the sauce and serve with mashed or roast potatoes.
Tip: If you can, cook it a day ahead: once cold, the fat is easy to lift off the top and the meat becomes even more tender.
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