Peruvian seafood rice (Arroz con mariscos)

1. Scrub and debeard the mussels; peel the prawns and cut the squid into rings. Cook the mussels with the white wine in a covered pot for 3-4 minutes until they open; lift out, strain and reserve the cooking liquid.

2. In a wide, deep pan, soften the finely chopped onion and diced bell pepper in the oil for 6 minutes, add the crushed garlic and both ají pastes and fry for 2 minutes.

3. Add the grated tomatoes, cook for 5 minutes until thick, then add the rice and stir for 1-2 minutes to coat the grains.

4. Pour in the fish stock and the mussel liquid, season with salt and pepper and simmer gently for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally – this isn't paella, the rice stays creamy and moist here.

5. Add the peas, prawns and squid and cook for 4-5 minutes, then return the mussels and stir in the grated Parmesan and chopped coriander.

6. Serve immediately with salsa criolla and lime wedges.

Tip: The Parmesan isn't a mistake: Peruvian cooking was strongly influenced by Italian immigrants, and this cheese is what makes arroz con mariscos creamy.