Pan-fried cheese with lemon (Saganaki)

1. Cut the cheese into slices about 1.5 cm thick, dip them in cold water, then coat all sides with flour and tap off the excess.

2. Heat the olive oil until very hot in a small heavy-based frying pan.

3. Add the cheese slices and fry for 1-2 minutes per side until golden brown, so the inside melts but still holds its shape.

4. Drain briefly on kitchen paper.

5. Transfer to a plate while still sizzling and sprinkle with freshly ground pepper.

6. Serve at once with lemon wedges to squeeze over at the table, and fresh bread.

Tip: Saganaki is named after the small two-handled pan it's cooked in. Gruyère, halloumi or a hard sheep's cheese all work instead of kefalograviera – what matters is that the cheese doesn't run as it fries.