1. Remove the outer leaves of the cabbage, cut out the core and slice the head into thin strips.
2. Melt the butter in a large, heavy-based pan and add a third of the cabbage; sprinkle with a third of the caraway seeds and salt.
3. Layer the remaining cabbage, caraway and salt in the same way.
4. Pour in the water and cider vinegar, cover and braise over low heat for 1 hour, stirring occasionally; add a little water if it starts to catch.
5. Stir in the sugar and cook uncovered for another 10-15 minutes until most of the liquid has evaporated; taste and adjust with vinegar, sugar or salt if needed.
6. Serve warm with Norwegian Christmas roast pork belly (ribbe), sausages or roast pork.
Tip: Norwegian surkål is not fermented sauerkraut but white cabbage braised with vinegar, sweet and sour, and it's the essential partner of the Christmas "ribbe" (crispy roast pork belly). It's even better reheated the next day, so feel free to make it ahead. For a rounder flavour, you can braise a grated apple with it.
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