Montenegrin potato and cornmeal mash with kajmak (Kačamak)

1. Peel and dice the potatoes and cook them in about 1 litre of salted water in a heavy-based pan for 15 minutes until tender.

2. Scoop about 300 ml of the cooking water into a mug and set aside.

3. Sprinkle the cornmeal over the potatoes but don't stir: let the layer of cornmeal 'cook' on top of the potatoes over low heat for 10-12 minutes.

4. Then mash and beat thoroughly with a sturdy wooden spoon until you have a smooth, elastic mash; if it's too thick, add some of the reserved cooking water.

5. Work in half the kajmak and the crumbled cheese and keep stirring until the mash is glossy and stretchy.

6. Spoon onto plates, top with the remaining kajmak and serve warm with yoghurt or sour milk.

Tip: Kačamak was the breakfast and lunch of Montenegrin and Serbian mountain shepherds, and it's still a favourite in mountain inns. If you don't have kajmak, use a mix of mascarpone and soured cream; you can use feta instead of the cheese.