Lemon butter tagliolini (Tagliolini al limone)

1. Scrub the lemons thoroughly in hot water, finely grate the zest (only the yellow part), then squeeze the juice of one.

2. Cook the tagliatelle (or thinner tagliolini, if you can find them) in plenty of salted water for 1 minute less than the stated time.

3. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a wide frying pan over low heat, add two-thirds of the lemon zest and warm for 1 minute so the butter takes on its aroma.

4. Add a ladleful of pasta water and the lemon juice and swirl so the butter and water form a creamy base.

5. Add the drained pasta, take off the heat, add the grated parmesan and toss until the sauce coats the pasta silkily; add a little more cooking water if needed.

6. Sprinkle with the remaining zest and freshly ground pepper and serve at once.

Tip: Add the lemon juice to the buttery water, not directly to the cheese - the acid would curdle the hot cheese and make the sauce lumpy.