Lamb stew with tarragon and sour plums (Chakapuli)

1. Cut the lamb shoulder into 4-5 cm pieces, put them in a wide pot, pour over the wine and just enough water to cover, bring to the boil, skim off the foam, then cover and simmer gently for 40 minutes.

2. Meanwhile pick the tarragon leaves from the stalks and roughly chop them with the coriander; cut the spring onions into 2-3 cm pieces and finely chop the chilli and garlic.

3. Layer the spring onions, most of the tarragon and coriander and the chilli over the meat, season with salt, cover and simmer for another 30 minutes, gently turning once – the herbs release a lot of liquid.

4. Add the sour green tkemali plums (whole, stones in) and cook for another 15-20 minutes until the plums soften and the meat is tender; the sauce should taste tangy and fresh and green.

5. Finally stir in the garlic and the reserved fresh herbs, taste and adjust the salt if needed; leave to rest for 5 minutes.

6. Serve in deep plates with plenty of broth and fresh bread – chakapuli is a classic of the Georgian Easter table, when tarragon and green plums are at their most tender.

Tip: If you can't find green tkemali plums, use unripe sour plums or greengages and sharpen the sauce with the juice of a lemon at the end. The alcohol in the wine cooks off during the long simmer, leaving only its acidity.