Kenyan grilled goat (Nyama choma)

1. Cut the goat meat (preferably bone-in ribs or leg) into large pieces of about 10 cm.

2. Mix the crushed garlic with the juice of one lemon, the oil, half the salt and the pepper, rub it into the meat and leave for 1 hour.

3. Heat the grill to medium (with charcoal, put the meat at the edge of the embers, not directly above).

4. Grill the meat slowly for 60-75 minutes, turning every 10 minutes, until brown and crusty outside and tender inside; in the oven, roast at 170 °C for 75 minutes, then 10 more minutes under the grill.

5. Chop into bite-sized pieces on a board, sprinkle with the remaining salt and drizzle with the juice of the other lemon.

6. Serve hot with ugali and a fresh tomato and onion salad; in Kenya it is eaten with the hands from a shared platter.

Tip: Nyama choma means grilled meat in Swahili and is the heart of weekend gatherings with friends in Kenya. If you can't get goat, you can make it the same way with lamb. The secret is slow, medium heat: it takes patience, but the smoky flavour makes up for it.