Japanese rolled omelette (Tamagoyaki)

1. Mix the eggs in a bowl with chopsticks, using side-to-side strokes without whisking, so the white is blended in but not aerated.

2. Add the dashi, sugar, mirin, soy sauce and salt and stir until the sugar dissolves.

3. Heat a (preferably rectangular) frying pan over medium-low heat and wipe it thinly with kitchen paper dipped in oil.

4. Pour in a quarter of the egg, spread it out, and when the bottom has set but the top is still moist, roll it up from the far end of the pan towards you.

5. Push the roll back to the far end, oil the pan again, pour in another portion (letting some run under the roll) and roll up again – carry on until the egg is used up.

6. Wrap in a bamboo sushi mat or baking paper and shape for 5 minutes, then cut into 2 cm slices and serve warm or cold.

Tip: Tamagoyaki is the sweetish layered omelette of Japanese breakfasts and bento. Cook it on low heat, as the sugar makes it brown easily – you're aiming for a pale yellow colour.