Jamaican jerk chicken (Jerk chicken)

1. Toast the allspice in a dry pan for 1-2 minutes, then crush in a mortar; deseed the habaneros (wear gloves!), chop the spring onions and ginger, and strip the thyme leaves.

2. Blend all this with the garlic, cinnamon, nutmeg, brown sugar, soy sauce, lime juice, oil, salt and pepper into a thick, greenish marinade.

3. Slash the chicken legs deeply down to the bone, rub the marinade in well, getting it into the cuts too, then cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight.

4. Heat the grill to medium (or the oven to 200 °C) and cook the legs first on the indirect, cooler side, covered, for 30-35 minutes.

5. Then move them to the hotter side and cook for 3-4 minutes per side, until the skin is charred in spots and crisp – the typical jerk look; baste two or three times with the remaining marinade.

6. Rest for 5 minutes and serve with rice and peas, fried plantain and fresh coleslaw.

Tip: Habanero (scotch bonnet) is very hot – if you're cautious, start with a single deseeded pepper.