1. Blend the shallots, garlic, ginger, galangal, turmeric and chillies with a little water into a smooth paste.
2. Toast the desiccated coconut in a dry frying pan, stirring constantly, until dark golden (this is kerisik), then pound in a mortar or blitz into an oily paste.
3. In a heavy-based pan fry the spice paste in the oil over medium heat for 5-6 minutes until fragrant and the oil separates.
4. Add the beef shin cut into 4-5 cm cubes, the bruised lemongrass stalks and the lime leaves and stir for 5 minutes.
5. Pour in the coconut milk, add the toasted coconut, sugar and salt and simmer uncovered over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 2½-3 hours until the sauce has completely reduced and the meat is dark brown and tender.
6. Stir often during the last half hour so it doesn't catch; serve with jasmine rice.
Tip: A festive dish of the Minangkabau of West Sumatra, often voted one of the world's most delicious foods. Rendang is a "dry" curry: cook it until the coconut milk has evaporated and the meat caramelises in its own fat – it's even better the next day.
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