Green papaya salad with dried beef (Gỏi đu đủ bò khô)

1. Peel and deseed the green papaya and shred into long, thin strips; do the same with the carrot. Soak in iced water for 10 minutes, then drain well and squeeze dry.

2. For the dressing, dissolve the sugar in the fish sauce and water, then add the lime juice, crushed garlic, finely chopped chilli and sriracha.

3. Tear or cut the dried beef into thin strips.

4. Toast and roughly chop the peanuts; pick the Thai basil leaves.

5. Toss the papaya and carrot with the dressing, pile onto plates and top with the beef, basil and peanuts.

6. Serve immediately so the papaya stays crunchy.

Tip: A street snack sold outside Saigon's schools: sweet, sour and spicy, with the dried beef adding a chewy, salty character. If you can't find green papaya, firm unripe mango, kohlrabi or green apple make a good base.