Goan fish curry (Xitti kodi)

1. Cut the fish fillet into 5 cm pieces, salt and leave to rest while you make the paste. Soak the kokum in a quarter glass of lukewarm water.

2. Blend the grated coconut, dried chillies, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, turmeric, garlic and ginger with half the water into a very smooth, thick paste.

3. Heat the oil in a pan and sweat the thinly sliced onion for 6-7 minutes until soft and lightly golden.

4. Add the spice paste, fry for 3-4 minutes, stirring, then pour in the remaining water and cook for 5 minutes. Add the green chillies, halved lengthways, and the kokum with its soaking water.

5. Add the fish, gently shake the pan (instead of stirring, so the fish stays whole) and simmer covered over low heat for 6-8 minutes until the fish is cooked. Season with salt.

6. Serve with steamed rice; it tastes even better the next day.

Tip: Kokum is the dried rind of a western Indian fruit; it gives Goan curry its pleasant tang and pinkish colour. If you can't find it, use a tablespoon of tamarind paste instead. Any firm-fleshed sea fish works (e.g. mackerel, cod).