Fried dough sticks (Youtiao)

1. Mix the flour with the baking powder, bicarbonate of soda and salt, then add the egg and gradually the lukewarm water and knead into a soft, slightly sticky dough.

2. Knead the dough briefly three times at 10-minute intervals, then brush with the cooking oil, cover and rest for at least 4 hours (or overnight in the fridge).

3. On an oiled worktop, stretch it into a strip 8 cm wide and 1 cm thick and cut into pieces 2 cm wide.

4. Lay one piece on top of another, press down lengthways along the middle with a chopstick, then hold both ends and pull to about 20 cm long.

5. Heat the oil to 190 °C in a smaller, deep pan and slide the sticks in one at a time; turning constantly, they puff up and turn golden brown in 1-2 minutes.

6. Drain on kitchen paper and serve warm.

Tip: In China they are fried on every street corner in the morning and dipped into congee or fresh soy milk. The secret is the long rest: it makes the dough stretchy and the sticks airy.