Czech braided Christmas bread (Vánočka)

1. Soak the raisins in lukewarm water. Warm the milk until lukewarm, crumble in the yeast with a teaspoon of sugar and leave for 10 minutes to activate.

2. In a large bowl mix the flour with the salt, remaining sugar and the grated lemon zest, add 2 eggs, the activated yeast and the melted, lukewarm butter and knead for 10 minutes into a smooth, glossy, blistered dough. Finally knead in the drained raisins; cover and leave for 1.5 hours until doubled.

3. Divide the dough into 9 equal pieces and roll each into a rope about 40 cm long. Braid 4 ropes into a wide plait, lay a thinner plait of 3 ropes on top, and on that a twist of 2 ropes – stick the layers together with water.

4. Place on a lined baking tray, cover and leave to rise for another 40 minutes. Beat the third egg and brush the loaf carefully; sprinkle with the flaked almonds. You can secure the braids to the tray with skewers so they don't slip off during baking.

5. Bake in an oven preheated to 170 °C for 45-50 minutes; if it browns too quickly, cover with foil. Test with a skewer: if it comes out clean, it's done.

6. Cool completely on a rack and serve in thin slices with butter and jam; wrapped in a linen cloth it stays soft for days.

Tip: Vánočka is the symbol of Czech Christmas: the three-tiered loaf braided from nine strands is traditionally baked on the morning of Christmas Eve, and folk belief held that you had to jump up and down while it baked so the dough would rise well.