Cypriot pork with coriander seeds and red wine (Afelia)

1. Cut the pork neck into 3-4 cm cubes; crush the coriander seeds coarsely in a mortar (not to a powder).

2. Put the meat in a bowl, pour over the red wine, add half the crushed coriander and the bay leaves, cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, ideally overnight.

3. Lift the meat out of the marinade (keep the marinade) and pat it very dry; brown it in batches over high heat in the olive oil in a heavy-based pan.

4. Return all the meat to the pan, pour in the marinade, season with salt, cover and simmer gently for about 1 hour 30 minutes until tender; if the liquid reduces too much, add a little water.

5. Remove the lid, stir in the remaining coriander and the pepper and cook for another 10-15 minutes until the sauce reduces to a thick, glossy, dark glaze.

6. Serve with pourgouri (bulgur pilaf), yoghurt and a fresh salad.

Tip: The soul of afelia is freshly crushed coriander seed – ready-ground powder loses its citrusy aroma, so always buy whole seeds and crush them just before cooking.