Crispy fried spring rolls (Chả giò)

1. Soak the wood ear mushrooms and glass noodles in warm water for 15 minutes, drain and finely chop; peel and finely chop the prawns, grate the carrot and finely chop the onion and garlic.

2. Mix everything with the minced pork, egg, fish sauce, sugar and pepper – the filling should be firm, not wet.

3. Dip the rice papers one at a time briefly in warm water (or brush with wet hands), put 1 tbsp of filling near the bottom and roll into a tight, finger-thick roll, folding in the sides.

4. Heat the oil to 160 °C and fry the rolls in batches for 8-10 minutes, turning, until golden and crisp – at this lower temperature the filling cooks through and the skin turns blistered and crunchy.

5. Drain on kitchen paper; meanwhile mix the fish sauce with the sugar, lime juice, water and chilli.

6. Serve hot, wrapped in lettuce and mint and dipped in the sauce.

Tip: An essential starter on the festive table. If the rolls split while frying, the paper was too wet – just moisten it rather than soaking it; fried rolls also freeze well.