Chili-braised beef cheeks (Barbacoa de res)

1. Stem and deseed the guajillo and ancho chilies, toast them in a dry pan for a few seconds, then cover with hot water and soak for 20 minutes.

2. Blend the soaked chilies with 250 ml of the soaking liquid, the chipotle, cider vinegar, garlic, cumin, cloves and oregano until smooth, and season with salt.

3. Trim the thick sinewy membranes off the beef cheeks, cut them into 2-3 large pieces, salt them and brown well on all sides in hot oil in a cast-iron pot.

4. Pour over the chili sauce, add the bay leaves and, if needed, enough water to come two thirds of the way up the meat; cover and braise in the oven at 150 °C for 3½-4 hours until meltingly tender.

5. Lift out the meat and shred it with two forks, discard the bay leaves, reduce the juices a little on the stove and turn the meat back into them.

6. Serve in warm corn tortillas with finely chopped onion and coriander, and a cup of the hot braising broth (consomé) on the side.

Tip: The collagen in beef cheeks only turns silky soft with long braising – don't rush it; give it another half hour if needed.