1. In a dry frying pan toast the coriander seeds, black pepper, fennel seeds, dried chillies, star anise and cinnamon over low heat for 3-4 minutes, then add the grated coconut and toast until golden brown. Cool and blend with a little water into a thick paste.
2. Cut the chicken legs in two at the joint and pull off the skin. Finely chop the onions; grate the ginger and garlic.
3. Heat the oil in a pan, add the curry leaves, then the onions and fry for 10 minutes until golden brown. Add the ginger and garlic and fry for 1 more minute.
4. Add the diced tomatoes, turmeric and salt and cook for 5 minutes. Add the chicken and turn for 5 minutes so it's coated in the masala on all sides.
5. Stir in the Chettinad spice paste, pour in the water and simmer covered over low heat for 30-35 minutes until the chicken is tender and the sauce thick and glossy.
6. Serve with steamed rice, parotta or dosa.
Tip: The cuisine of the Chettiar merchant families of Tamil Nadu is one of India's most spice-rich: black pepper and star anise give it its deep, hot flavour. If you prefer it milder, use fewer dried chillies.
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