1. Trim the rind off the guanciale (cured pork cheek) and cut it into strips about 1 cm wide and 3-4 cm long.
2. Heat a wide frying pan without oil, add the guanciale and cook over medium heat for 6-8 minutes until the fat renders and the strips are translucent and slightly crisp.
3. Pour in the white wine and let it evaporate, then lift out the guanciale with a slotted spoon (so it doesn't harden) and add the hand-crushed tomatoes and chilli flakes to the fat; simmer for 12-15 minutes until thickened.
4. Meanwhile, cook the bucatini in plenty of salted water for 1 minute less than the time on the packet.
5. Return the guanciale to the sauce, add the drained pasta with a little cooking water and toss together for 1 minute; off the heat, stir in half the grated pecorino romano.
6. Serve piping hot, sprinkled with the remaining pecorino.
Tip: The original amatriciana has no onion or garlic - the guanciale fat and pecorino give it all its flavour; if you can't find guanciale, pancetta works too.
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