Bolognese ragù (Ragù alla bolognese)

1. Cut the pancetta into small dice and chop the onion, carrot and celery very finely (this is the "soffritto").

2. Heat the olive oil and butter in a heavy-based pan, fry the pancetta for 3-4 minutes, then add the vegetables and sweat over low heat for 10 minutes until soft.

3. Add the minced beef and pork, turn up the heat and brown it, breaking it up with a wooden spoon, until the juices have evaporated and the meat is lightly browned.

4. Pour in the white wine and cook until it evaporates, then stir in the passata and tomato purée and add the hot stock.

5. Season with salt and pepper, cover and simmer over the lowest possible heat for at least 2.5 hours, stirring now and then; if it gets too thick, add a little more stock.

6. Stir in the milk during the last half hour and cook uncovered until thick; use with tagliatelle or for lasagne.

Tip: Bolognese ragù is "a meat sauce with tomato", not a tomato sauce with meat - the milk softens it; in Bologna it's never served with spaghetti, it tastes even better the next day and keeps frozen for 3 months.