Sweet and sour tamarind and date chutney (Imli chutney)

1. Stone and chop the dates and put them in a small pan with the water. Bring to the boil and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes until completely soft.

2. Add the tamarind paste and the chopped jaggery and cook, stirring, until the jaggery has completely dissolved.

3. Meanwhile, toast the cumin seeds in a dry pan until fragrant, then grind to a powder in a mortar.

4. Add the ground cumin, ground ginger, chilli powder and salt to the pan and cook for another 10-15 minutes until thickened and thinly coating the back of a spoon.

5. Blend smooth with a stick blender, then press through a fine sieve for a glossy, silky sauce. It thickens further as it cools.

6. Serve chilled with samosas, pakoras or chaat; it keeps for two weeks in a jar in the fridge.

Tip: The essential brown sauce of North Indian chaats (street snacks), best paired with green mint chutney. Brown cane sugar can replace jaggery (cane sugar cake), but jaggery gives a deeper, more caramel flavour.