Steamed fish in lime and chilli sauce (Pla nueng manao)

1. Clean the fish and score both sides 3-4 times down to the bone; cut the lemongrass diagonally into pieces, bruise it and put it in the cavity of the fish.

2. Lay the fish on a deep heatproof plate and steam, covered, over boiling water for 12-15 minutes until the flesh comes away easily from the backbone.

3. Meanwhile finely chop the garlic and chillies; squeeze the juice from the limes.

4. Bring the stock to the boil, take it off the heat and stir in the lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, garlic and chilli – the dressing should be sour, salty, hot and slightly sweet all at once.

5. Lift out the steamed fish on its plate and pour the hot dressing generously over it.

6. Sprinkle with coriander leaves and serve immediately with jasmine rice.

Tip: In Thailand it is brought to the table in a fish-shaped metal dish with a flame underneath to keep the sauce hot to the end. Instead of tilapia, trout, sea bass or a thick white fish fillet also work; for fillets, the steaming time is 8-10 minutes.