Sri Lankan spicy coconut sambol (Pol sambol)

1. Soak the desiccated coconut in the lukewarm water for 10 minutes so it regains the moisture of fresh coconut, then squeeze out the excess water.

2. Chop the red onion very finely and pound the Maldive fish finely in a mortar.

3. In a mortar (or bowl), crush the onion, chilli flakes, Maldive fish and salt together until the onion releases its juice and everything turns reddish.

4. Add the coconut and work it well with your hands until every strand is evenly orange-red from the chilli.

5. Squeeze over the lime juice, mix and taste: the sambol should be spicy, salty and tangy all at once.

6. Serve at once with rice and curries, string hoppers or bread.

Tip: Sri Lanka's national condiment, on the table at almost every meal. Maldive fish (dried, smoked tuna) gives its umami depth; if you can't find it, replace it with finely pounded dried shrimp, or simply leave it out for a vegetarian version.