Sri Lankan spiced fish cutlets (Maalu cutlet)

1. Simmer the mackerel in a little salted water for 8-10 minutes, then drain, carefully remove the skin and bones and flake finely with a fork. Boil the potatoes in their skins, peel and mash until smooth.

2. Heat the tablespoon of oil in a frying pan and cook the chopped onion, finely chopped green chillies and chopped curry leaves for 5 minutes until soft.

3. Add the fish, freshly ground black pepper and salt and fry, stirring, for 2-3 minutes to dry it out a little. In a bowl, work it well together with the potatoes and lime juice and taste: be generous with the pepper.

4. Shape the mixture into 12 small, walnut-sized balls. Beat the egg in a shallow dish and put the breadcrumbs in another. Roll the balls first in the egg, then in the crumbs.

5. Heat the oil in a smaller, deep pan and fry the cutlets in batches, turning, for 3-4 minutes until golden and crisp. Lift onto kitchen paper.

6. Serve hot with lime wedges and hot chilli sauce, as a snack or starter.

Tip: A favourite of Sri Lankan tea rooms and festive "short eats" platters. They are often made with tinned mackerel, which works just as well; just drain it thoroughly. Black pepper matters more than chilli here: it gives the characteristic warming heat.