Slow-roasted lamb shoulder (Kuzu tandır)

1. Bring the lamb shoulder to room temperature, pat it dry and rub it with the salt, pepper, ground cumin and olive oil.

2. Line the bottom of a deep roasting tin or dish with thick onion slices and the bay leaves, lay the meat on top and pour about 200 ml of water around it.

3. Cover the dish tightly with a lid or a double layer of foil to keep the steam in – the essence of tandır is slow cooking in a sealed pot.

4. Roast in the oven at 160 °C for 3.5-4 hours, until the meat comes away from the bone easily with a fork; check once during cooking and add a little water if needed.

5. Remove the lid, raise the oven to 220 °C and roast the meat for another 15-20 minutes until the top is crisp and brown.

6. Pull the meat into large pieces, drizzle with the pan juices and serve with red onion tossed in sumac and parsley.

Tip: In Anatolia the tandır is an oven dug into the ground where the lamb cooks all night. If you have time, roast it at 140 °C for 5-6 hours – it will be even more tender. Serve with pilaf or fresh pide.