1. Blend all the marinade ingredients – the juice of the oranges and limes, achiote paste, garlic, oregano, cider vinegar, oil, salt and pepper – until smooth.
2. Using kitchen scissors, cut along both sides of the chicken's backbone and remove it, open the bird out skin side up and press down firmly on the breastbone with your palm to flatten it.
3. Rub the marinade thoroughly into both sides of the chicken, put it in a dish, cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, ideally overnight.
4. Heat the grill to medium, place the chicken skin side up, cover and cook for 20-25 minutes, then turn and cook skin side down for another 15-20 minutes, basting a few times with the remaining marinade.
5. It's done when the juices run clear from the thickest part of the thigh; let it rest for 10 minutes.
6. Cut into pieces and serve with warm tortillas, grilled onions, salsa and rice.
Tip: It's great without a grill too: roast on a rack at 200 °C for 45-50 minutes, then give it 3-4 minutes under the grill at the end.
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