Sicilian ricotta cannoli

1. The evening before, put the ricotta in a sieve and let it drain overnight in the fridge - this is the secret of a creamy, not runny filling.

2. For the shells, mix the flour with the sugar, cocoa powder and a pinch of salt, add the lard, egg, marsala and vinegar and knead for 5 minutes into a smooth, firm dough; wrap in cling film and rest for 1 hour.

3. Roll the dough out very thinly (about 1-2 mm) on a floured surface, cut out 10 cm rounds and wrap each around an oiled cannoli tube, sealing the overlap with a dab of egg white.

4. Deep-fry in batches in oil at 170 °C for 2-3 minutes until golden and blistered; drain on kitchen paper and, while still warm, carefully slide them off the tubes. Let them cool completely.

5. Press the drained ricotta through a sieve and beat it creamy with the icing sugar; stir in the candied orange peel and the finely chopped dark chocolate.

6. Just before serving, pipe the filling into the shells, dip both ends in chopped pistachios and dust with icing sugar.

Tip: In Sicily they're the sweet of Carnival and now of the whole year; fill them only just before serving, or the shells go soft - unfilled shells stay crisp for a week in an airtight container.