Sichuan chilli oil (Lajiao you)

1. Toast the Sichuan pepper in a dry pan for 1 minute, then grind coarsely; mix it in a heatproof bowl with the chilli flakes, sesame seeds, salt and sugar.

2. Slice the ginger, cut the spring onions into large pieces, and peel and halve the garlic.

3. Pour the oil into a small pan, add the star anise, cinnamon, ginger, spring onions and garlic and heat over very low heat for 15-20 minutes until the aromatics are golden brown and the oil is fragrant.

4. Remove the aromatics with a slotted spoon and heat the oil to 200-210 °C (a piece of chilli dropped in should foam immediately).

5. Carefully pour a third of the oil over the chilli mixture and stir; after 1 minute pour in the rest, so the chilli toasts and keeps its bright red colour.

6. Leave to cool completely and pour into a clean, airtight jar; it tastes best from the next day.

Tip: The basic seasoning of Sichuan cooking: for wontons, noodles, cold salads and as a dip. Kept in a cool place and spooned out with a clean spoon, it lasts for months; if you don't like it too hot, mix a little sweet paprika into the chilli flakes.