Peruvian green chilli sauce (Ají verde)

1. Halve the jalapeños lengthways and, for a milder sauce, scrape out the seeds and veins; chop roughly.

2. Roughly chop the coriander, stems and all – the stems carry the most flavour.

3. Put the jalapeños, coriander, huacatay paste, crumbled fresh cheese (queso fresco – a mix of feta and ricotta can stand in), garlic and lime juice in a blender.

4. Add the mayonnaise and olive oil and blend for a few minutes until completely smooth, bright green and creamy.

5. Season with salt and, if too thick, thin with a spoonful or two of water.

6. Chill and serve with pollo a la brasa (rotisserie chicken), fried potatoes or empanadas.

Tip: If there's no huacatay, a handful of mint plus a little extra coriander stands in – it's what gives the "secret" green sauce of Lima's chicken joints its freshness.