Moroccan preserved lemons (L'hamd markad)

1. Wash the lemons thoroughly, soak overnight in cold water, then wipe dry; rinse a 1-litre jar with boiling water.

2. Cut each lemon lengthways in a cross, leaving about 1 cm joined at the base so it opens into four segments.

3. Fill the cuts generously with salt, then press the lemons closed.

4. Sprinkle a tablespoon of salt into the bottom of the jar and pack the lemons in tightly, pressing them down and salting each layer so that their juice runs out.

5. If the squeezed juice doesn't cover the lemons, squeeze over the juice of the remaining 2-3 lemons; seal and leave to mature in a cool, dark place for 4 weeks, turning the jar daily during the first week.

6. Before using, rinse the lemon, usually discard the pulp, and add the soft peel finely chopped to tagines and salads.

Tip: Preserved lemon is one of the cornerstones of Moroccan cooking: chicken tagine with olives and many salads are unthinkable without it. Use organic, unwaxed lemons, because the peel is what you eat. Once opened, it keeps for up to a year in the fridge as long as the lemons are always covered with juice.