1. Turn the chicken thighs in the butter with the grated onion, cinnamon, ground ginger, saffron, herbs, salt and pepper for 5 minutes, pour in the water and braise covered for 45 minutes until the meat falls off the bone.
2. Remove the meat, bone and shred it; reduce the onion juices uncovered until thick, pour in the beaten eggs and stir until they set into creamy scrambled eggs.
3. Blanch, skin and toast the almonds until golden, then grind coarsely and mix with the icing sugar, cinnamon and orange blossom water.
4. Lay half the filo sheets in a buttered 28 cm cake tin so the edges hang over, brushing each sheet with melted butter; add the egg mixture, then the chicken, and finally the almond layer.
5. Fold the overhanging sheets over the filling, cover with the remaining buttered sheets, tuck the edges under and bake in a 180 °C oven for 30-35 minutes until golden and crisp.
6. Leave to cool slightly, then dust the top thickly with icing sugar and sprinkle a lattice of cinnamon over it.
Tip: Pastilla (bastilla) is the festive pride of Fès, where savoury and sweet meet; it's originally made with pigeon. Filo dries out quickly, so keep it covered with a damp tea towel while you work. At weddings and big celebrations, it's the first course.
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