1. Cut the ribs between the bones, blanch in boiling water for 3 minutes and rinse – this keeps the soup clear.
2. Put the meat into a large pot with fresh water, the two whole unpeeled garlic bulbs, star anise, cinnamon and white and black pepper (crush the pepper in a mortar or put it in a small muslin bag).
3. Bring to the boil, then cover and simmer gently for 1½ hours until the meat is tender and the broth fragrant and peppery.
4. Season with the soy sauces and salt; the broth should be light brown and clear.
5. Meanwhile cook the jasmine rice; for the dip, slice the chillies into soy sauce.
6. Ladle the soup with the meat and a clove of the garlic into deep bowls, sprinkle with coriander and serve with rice and the chilli soy – dip the meat into the sauce as you eat.
Tip: The name means "meat bone tea": it was the strengthening breakfast of dock workers in Klang, and strong Chinese tea is still drunk alongside it. The Klang version is dark and herbal; the Singaporean one is this light, peppery style.
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