Madeiran beef skewers with bay leaves (Espetada madeirense)

1. Cut the beef into roughly 5 cm cubes; pound the garlic to a paste with the coarse sea salt in a mortar and mix with the olive oil.

2. Rub the meat with the garlic salt, tuck half the bay leaves, torn, in among the cubes, cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour (or overnight).

3. Thread the meat onto long metal skewers or – closer to the original – thick, soaked wooden ones, slipping a fresh bay leaf between the cubes.

4. Heat a grill or charcoal fire to high and cook the skewers for 10-12 minutes, turning every 2-3 minutes, until the meat is nicely browned outside and still pink inside.

5. Meanwhile melt the butter in a small pan and brush it over the skewers at the end of cooking so they are glossy and juicy.

6. Rest for a few minutes and serve – on Madeira the skewers are hung from a stand above the table and served with toasted bread spread with garlic butter and a salad.

Tip: On Madeira the meat is traditionally threaded onto a freshly cut bay branch – if you have a bay tree, give it a try: the aroma released while grilling is quite special.