Kerala porotta with beef fry

1. Cut the beef into 2 cm cubes, mix with the turmeric, chilli powder and salt and braise covered with the water for 1 hour 15 minutes (or 25 minutes in a pressure cooker) until tender and almost all the liquid has evaporated.

2. Meanwhile, for the porotta mix the flour with the sugar, salt, egg and water, knead for 8 minutes until smooth, brush with oil and rest for at least 1 hour.

3. Toast the coriander seeds, fennel seeds and black pepper in a dry pan for 1 minute, then crush coarsely in a mortar. Heat the coconut oil in a wide pan and fry the thinly sliced onions, ginger, garlic and curry leaves for 8 minutes.

4. Add the desiccated coconut and fry until golden, then add the freshly crushed spices, garam masala and tender beef. Fry over medium heat, tossing often, for 15-20 minutes until the meat is dark brown and slightly crisp.

5. Divide the dough into 6 balls, roll very thinly on an oiled worktop, pleat like an accordion, coil into a spiral and flatten to a 15 cm round. Cook in a hot, lightly oiled pan for 2-3 minutes on each side.

6. Clap the hot porottas between your palms so the layers open up and serve with the beef fry.

Tip: Kerala's legendary street pairing, a favourite at railway canteens and "thattukada" stalls. The flaky, layered porotta gets its texture from all that folding: patience is well rewarded.